The Soul of Sole Meunière

Dinner date: July 12, 2008

Menu: Sole Meunière with Baseball Zucchini and Rice Pilaf

Wine: Beringer Napa Valley Private Reserve Chardonnay 2000

 

I’m not much of a fish eater. As a matter of fact it is the last thing I look at on a menu. During my growing years fish was something that came frozen in a box consumed on Fridays or even worse, fish was the smell of its afterlife as you walked along the lake shore. In my adult years I grew more towards consuming water life in tasting and enjoying clams, crab, lobster, green lip mussels from New Zealand, oysters, prawns from a boat off Sydney Harbour (fresh prawns, not frozen… the kind that still had its head, eyes, and four antennae attached as it was served to you), scallops, squid, Beluga caviar from the Caspian Sea (and nowadays enjoying the more environmentally correct Idaho White Sturgeon Caviar), conch in Pompano Beach, FL, baby octopus (again while in Sydney), shark fin soup before I saw the videos, and so on. Not an impressive gastronomists lifestyle, but for a guy from the Midwest who grew up hating fish as a kid, this is quite significant. But, when it comes to fish… the kind of thing that swims through water via scales, whether it’s from fresh water or salt, it is something I just plain avoid.

 

But then a dish comes along and it intrigues you. So much so that you visualize every step of the cooking process and identify what needs to be done and how to do it. You can smell the nutty aromatics in the pan as the clarified butter heats to the correct sauté temperature, see the butter foam when you add lemon juice to it, hear the parsley sizzle when you pour the butter over the fish, feel the crunch of the texture as you take your first bite, taste the fish… well, there are 4 out of 5 good reasons to pursue this dish.

 

It doesn’t matter that you hold your breath every time you walk past the fish mongers because you can smell that one part in a billion of fish-death particles like you can smell that one part of 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) in a million of a wine smelling like a wet newspaper in a dank basement. It doesn’t matter because this dish is more of an exercise in mis en place and in the execution of culinary technique and methodology than it is in simply sautéing a fish. As you research, this dish becomes a challenge.

 

The dish in question is sole meunière. It’s something I’ve never had before but Kriste has twice in the time I’ve known her: once at a restaurant whose name is forgotten in Napa Valley and once at Au Bon Acceuil in the 7th arrondissement in Paris. Both times it was presented whole, not in fillets, with final preparation tableside. She couldn’t get enough of it.

 

I decided to make this dish when I stumbled across it in Walter Bickel’s, Hering’s Dictionary of Classical and Modern Cookery. My copy is the 13th English edition but it was originally published in German as Lexikon der Küche by Richard Hering almost 80 years earlier. The recipe is simply stated as:

 

— Miller Style: a la meunière: sole coated with flour, fried in butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice on top, covered with browned butter

 

Well that looks easy enough and it looks to be a very flexible recipe. After a some searching through the book I found that the meunière (pronounced muh-nyair) Miller’s wife style of cooking has 20 recipes in Hering’s little book of 16,000 recipe summaries:

 

· 1 soup

· 16 fish

· 1 calf’s brain

· 2 vegetable

 

With the Miller’s wife making 80 percent of her dishes with fish (in Hering’s world) you’d think the French eat nothing but fish. Not so according to Len Deighton, who says in his book, ABC of French Food, that as of the late ’80s (my edition is from ‘89), the per capita consumption of fish is 25 percent of Denmark and only 66 percent of England.

 

What is Sole?
Sole is a white, firm-fleshed flatfish found in the Atlantic Ocean. It is a lean fish (low in fat) whose compressed bones are usually more suited to the fillet cooking method than a cut of steak. It has an almost meat-like texture with a delicate flavor. When it’s born, the sole swims like a normal round fish (think of a bass in a lake) and then, as the fish gets older, it turns sideways and one eye moves to the other side (think of a horror film mutation where that bass is on the ironing board and with an iron you flatten it). It’s kind of freakish if you’re only familiar with round lake fish that swim in a straight line and have an eye on each side of the body.

 

The principal soul of sole meunière recipes is Dover Sole (Limande) named for Dover, southeast of London on the English Channel, where fishermen trawled for this fish along the channel’s bottom and brought it to the fish markets of London. This particular brand of sole is found up and down the Eastern Atlantic Ocean. This is the brand of sole used in European homes and restaurants when making ‘authentic’ Sole Meunière. In Europe and the American East Coast you can find whole Dover Sole with its black and white skin still on, and its skin can actually be peeled off. Trying to find this fish on the West Coast where salmon is king (no pun there) is another fairy-tale.

 

Here on the West Coast ‘Dover Sole’ is usually a slice of soft-textured flounder put on display in small, Dover Sole-like fillets. Other variations of ’sole’ exist and include lemon sole, gray sole, petrale sole, and Lex sole, among others. All of these brands are in the flounder family and can be grilled or sautéed. Fillets are usually poached, sautéed, or fried. Usually Pacific flounder or ‘lemon sole’ carry the Dover Sole name at my fish mongers. This is why I chose the word ‘brand’ in the previous paragraph. Here in the states Dover Sole has become a brand and it’s the fish monger’s choice as to how to pitch it. On the West Coast the fish displayed lacks the classic Dover Sole ripple effect in its flesh and the price lacks the transportation surcharge of bringing it from either side of the Atlantic. No one prices something caught in an ocean at $8 a pound after it is shipped 4,000 miles. In the Pacific Northwest, Dover Sole is flounder caught on this side of the Pacific Ocean.

 

Unfortunately for us tonight’s dinner will be Flounder Meunière branded as Dover Sole Meunière. Oh well. Maybe that won’t be so bad. Heck, even August Escoffier said over 100 years ago that a fine fillet of flounder can replace Dover Sole, but I should know that it can never replace the firm flesh and delicate flavor of a real Dover Sole.

 

A Simple Dish…

So far Sole Meunière sounds quite simple based on Mr. Bickel’s book. You just dredge the sole in flour, sauté it, sprinkle some parsley, lemon juice, and butter over it and it’s called à la meunière. Philip Pauli in his book Classical Cooking the Modern Way says to go a step further and dip the floured sole in egg and sauté it and it becomes Tranche de cohn sauté à la oeuf. Coat the egg-coated sole in bread crumbs and sauté it with bananas it’s now Filet de sole panés, aux bananes (breaded sole with bananas).

 

But dang me if I didn’t go on to read Elizabeth David’s French Provencial Cooking, originally written in 1960, who says how surprised she is at how simple Sole Meunière is explained in recipes. She states that there is a big difference between theory and practice.

 

She comments about how the ‘problems’ in this recipe are not mentioned by recipe writers. These writers don’t tell the reader:

 

· that cooking Sole Meunière for more than two people in the home is not a good idea

 

· a 10-inch skillet will not be large enough to cook more than two fillets

 

· the butter to sauté the sole must be clarified

 

· to watch the sole so it does not stick and burn

 

· how to turn the sole without breaking it; this is not easy

 

· to discard the remains of the butter in which your fish was cooked

 

· that the newly added whole butter must be brought just exactly to the right point when it turns a pale hazelnut colour, “no more and no less”

 

· to pour the butter instantly over the cooked fish and immediately serve the dish

 

From her warning I began opening more cookbooks to see what others wrote about it. These recipe ‘problems’ are now often explained in well-written cookbooks by people such as E. Saint-Ange, James Peterson, Paul Bocuse, and Philip Pauli. In reading these books a cook gains insight to every step required in a recipe, which makes Hering’s book a thing of beauty. A cook reading Hering’s recipe summary for Sole Meunière knows how to execute each step even though it’s not written there because the specifics were learned elsewhere. Look at the summary again and break it down to each individual content.

 

— Miller Style: a la meunière: sole coated with flour, fried in butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice on top, covered with browned butter

 

· sole coated with flour. You need to know to season the fish with salt and pepper. Know how coat it with flour, how much to use, and how to dust it off. Know that you can’t coat it more than 5 minutes beforehand or the resulting dish will be soggy. Know the serving portion for a fillet should average between 9 and 11 ounces.

 

· fried in butter. You need to know that the skillet must be large enough so that when you put the fish in it is not too tightly packed. You need to allow the steam from the fish to escape because this is dry-heat cooking. If the fish are too close together in the skillet the steam is trapped and the color will not be brown—the resulting texture will be soft.

 

You need to know that frying the fish in butter requires clarified butter because whole butter scorches the milk solids at the high temperature required to cook the fish, and that the butter must be at the correct temperature when the fish is added to the skillet to seize it and prevent it from sticking. The butter must cover the entire bottom of the skillet because the fish will stick where there is no butter. Cooking and browning must go hand in hand. You need to know the timing of cooking the fish and this is determined by temperature of the skillet and thickness of the fish. You need to know how to identify how the doneness is progressing and to look at the edges for the white dryness slowly moving up the side of the protein like a thermometer rises in the heat and the brown coloration that follows it to indicate when to flip it over. (The same doneness indicator is used on chicken breast for sautéing or grilling.) A general rule is 10 minutes per inch of thickness, but that can’t be followed too closely because the temperature of the skillet and thickness of the fish determine actual cooking time.

 

· chopped parsley. You need to know to scald, slightly dry, and chop the parsley before starting the dish. The chopped parsley should be spread evenly over the fish when the butter hits it to maximize the sizzle and foam.

 

· and lemon juice on top. You need to know to squeeze the lemon juice into a small container before you start cooking the dish because you won’t have time to put the mis en place together to extract the lemon juice after the fish is cooked. You need to know to pour the lemon juice over the parsley to wet if for the browned butter.

 

· covered with browned butter. You need to know how to brown butter to the right color. You need to know that only when you are ready to serve the plates should you drizzle the fish with the hot beurre noisette. When the very hot butter hits the damp parsley it produces the foamy richness that makes this dish so grand.

 

This is the soul of Hering’s book, as a cook you know all these things already because that’s your job. You just have this book, almost pocket-sized, handy to give you a summary of the recipes. It’s a reminder to 16,000 little scripts. It’s like an actor asking for a line in a play. Give me the line and I’ll remember how to deliver it.

 

The authors of sole meunière recipes who show the most concern in your success all have a common theme in the recipe headnote: speed and care of getting the fish from skillet to plate to guest.

 

With sole meunière you want to work fast as it’s one of the few dishes that requires immediate service. Ideally, the parslied butter should still be foamy when presented, don’t wait for it to subside. This is one of the few recipes that absolutely, positively must be served immediately. There is no holding it in the oven until you’re ready with other matters. The side dishes that accompany this dish must be of the type that can be held warm for at least 20 minutes. Even with two ‘foodies’ working together in a home kitchen the odds of executing the exact delivery time of the meunière and the side dishes à la minute is slim. Don’t set yourself up for failure. Let the meunière be the star of the dinner.

 

There is one exception to the previously stated rule; serve the side dish as a separate course before the meunière.

 

What the Farmers Are Selling in the Market

A gentle segue to tonight’s dinner, on Friday I walked through the Market on my way to work. The cloudless sky was bright blue with a light breeze coming off the Sound, always an indication of a busy and noisy day. During the summer, Fridays’ in the Market means farmers set up their street canopies usually starting at Pine Street and forming a line north. I notice today there’s a high percentage coming in from east of the Cascades, mostly from the Wenatchee area. There’s now an ample supply of zucchini and raspberries, as well as apriums, beets, bing cherries, fava beans, white-flesh peaches, pluots, potatoes, and basil.

 

However, the unusual thing that caught my eye at the Corner Market high stall was something called baseball zucchini. I have never seen this before, but I pick up three and bring them home. I have no books that reference it. A search through Yahoo and Google show only 9 hits and none of them offer much insight to cooking this.

 

Tonight’s Dinner

I’d like to point out some characteristics of the key ingredients in tonight’s dinner.

 

Butter is added to the dish in two parts; as clarified butter at the beginning of cooking and whole butter at the end. Clarified butter is butter that has the milk solids removed and the water boiled off. All that is left is the oil. This is preferred for the sauté cooking method because milk solids burn at a lower temperature (around 250°F) than what you need (around 400°F) for a successful sauté. Burned milk solids are those little black bits you occasionally see on poorly prepared dishes of pan-fried foods. It’s distracting in appearance and taste.

 

As an aside, I’d like to mention that I always save the milk solids I skim when making clarified butter and freeze them in rectangles about 2 inches by 1 inch and 1/4 inch high. This has a special purpose for another meal as I insert these frozen milk solids between the skin and meat of chicken breasts; this is especially beneficial to a whole roasted chicken in keeping the breast meat juicy while waiting for the leg meat to finish cooking. Absolutely sublime!

 

The second part of adding butter is whole butter at the end of cooking. Whole butter is used because the cooking of it is quick and controlled. You want the butter to brown (beurre noisette). Here the milk solids are lightly caramelized, not burned. This creates a nutty-smelling and tasting brown butter. Use your nose at this stage because you’ll smell the nuttiness before you see the brownness. If you wait to see the proper brown color you risk burning the milk solids and this is no time to start over.

 

Parsley is one of the most popular herbs used in European cuisine. To prepare for sole meunière: briefly (2 seconds) scald the parsley in boiling water, quickly dry in a paper towel, and chop. Parsley is named according to the shape of its leaf and there are two main types available:

 

· Curly: The leaves are bright green and curly. In the states it is most often used as a garnish on plates because of its attractive appearance. When buying in the grocery be sure to smell it because it looks very much like cilantro (coriander), which is often displayed along side parsley. The stem in curly parsley is more tender than Italian parsley so it’s okay to include a little of it when pulling the leaves off for chopping.

 

· Flat: Also known as Italian parsley. The leaves are dark green and flat. Use only the leaves for chopping as the stems are too tough and are easily noticed in a finished dish. More often seen in Europe as an ingredient as it adds more flavor to a dish than curly parsley.

 

With both types avoid bunches with yellow leaves as it’s a sign of age. Save the stems and add them to stocks and sauces as this is the most flavorful part of the plant. It helps build a ‘completeness’ to the flavor of the dish.

 

Flour, cook’s choice on this. The main thing I want to mention about flour is not to dredge a protein in flour until you are ready to cook it. As the protein sits it absorbs the flour and the result is a gummy coating that doesn’t crisp. The finished dish will either have a soggy texture with the inside properly cooked or a proper texture with an overcooked inside.

 

Sole. Unfortunately it’s going to be the flounder variety tonight. It won’t be the firm, delicately flavored variety. Perhaps this is a reason why European recipes don’t translate well as they cross the Atlantic.

 

Rice Pilaf. The side dishes that accompany this dish must be of the type that can be held warm for a period of time long enough for you to finish the sole meunière. This rice pilaf dish is so easy it’s one of the dishes they teach you in the first quarter culinary school. Here’s what I have from my school notes:

 

Rice Pilaf — Pilaf is a method using the following steps.

1. Melt butter in pan.

2. Toast rice.

3. Add liquid (stock) using a ratio of 1.5:1 for converted rice, 2:1 for regular rice.

4. Cover and finish in 350° oven for even cooking; 10-12 minutes.

5. Remove lid, stir, and hold for service.

 

You can do steps 1 and 2 days beforehand and store it in the refrigerator. When ready to cook, add the aromatics with the stock in step 3. Tonight’s aromatics are a simple matignon (edible mirepoix) of onion, carrot, and celery. Because I have only one oven I’ll make this on the stove top and hold it in a 170°F oven. This dish will hold in the oven for more than an hour with an occasional stir and a splash of stock to keep it moist.

 

While any long-grain rice is good for a pilaf I’m going to use basmati rice tonight. It’s a white, long-grain rice grown in the foothills of the Himalayans. The flavor is sweet and delicate with a floral aroma and is named after a fragrant flower grown in Southeast Asia. Basmati is one of those rices that require several rinses in cold running water to prevent the rice from sticking to each other.

 

Baseball Zucchini

I’ve never seen this, but seeing how the baseball All-Star Break is coming up, this has my interest. I’m thinking of preparing it with a combination of steam cooking and pan-frying. When I worked in catering steamed summer squash was often on the menu. The cooking was simple enough: steam for four minutes, mix with clarified butter, salt and pepper and toss it into a hotel pan and hold it for two or three hours. In the kitchen I’d sometimes grab some for my own dinner and place them cut side down in a skillet and sear for a minute to get a little caramelization. I thought about using bacon fat but decided on a clean-tasting oil, canola, instead. I want to keep the flavors clean. That is tonight’s plan with this.

 

The Wine

Selecting a wine for any dish is a mix or match proposition. Matching a wine to food means to serve a wine that complements the food. This is the easier of the two, but it is also the one that can get you into the most trouble. Match similar flavors, but be careful because this can backfire as the flavors might cancel each other out. On the positive side, if you can build on the flavors, it doubles the flavor. Mixing a wine to food means to go for contrast and have the wine function as a foil to the dish. If you’re preparing something on the spot, this is the way to go. If the wine is fruity, use the fruit notes to diminish richness. For example, the richness in game, such as duck, is diminished with fruit (Duck à l’Orange). Earthy wines are also contrasted with fruit if only because the wine doesn’t contain the fruit it should. Add fruit to the dish to enhance the fruit flavor that is supposed to be in the wine.

 

When picking a wine style remember to use the same skills as you would in matching a sauce to a food.

 

Tonight’s dinner is big on browned butter. Browned butter smells like toasted almonds. Butter, toast, and almonds means a big oaky California Chardonnay that’s big in weight, alcohol, and oak. It’s a match. California Chardonnay matches well with fattier fish, lobster, shrimp, and crab. Flounder is a leaner fish so I’m looking for the butter to carry the dish into fattier texture territory.

 

Tonight’s wine is a Beringer Napa Valley Private Reserve Chardonnay from 2000. I think Beringer offers one of the best wine brands in the country. Their product line, from top to bottom, delivers with every bottle and every brand offers great quality and value. And their website is the best around for offering information about wine and food pairing and tasting.

 

As much as I like Beringer products I have to remember that this is a Californian Chardonnay, which means oak. To reduce the oak notes I’m going to decant it for about an hour. Decanting white wines is not a common process as it’s usually done for reds and ports. I seldom decant my wines because we make them last two or three hours and I don’t want to miss anything as the wine evolves. If the wine is young, I might decant it for more than three hours.

 

When you taste a Californian Chardonnay you can’t help but think that the wine style is more about the oak barrel it was created in than the grape used to make the wine. This is sad because there are so many well-made Chardonnays in the world that focus on the grape and exscind the oaky note.

 

I have a fantasy that someday I visit a winery in Napa when the winemaker happens to catch me as I sip the “brilliantly made” latest offering. “Ahhh, an excellent choice! [What choice? It's the only white you're offering.] The oak tree we used to make the barrel for this wine was 200-years-old. What a day that was, cutting it down! I remember it like it was yesterday. It’s American oak, which is more forward flavored than French, and it comes from Michigan. Michigan oak is tighter than Virginian oak and gives the oak flavor more slowly. I was going to go with Kentucky or Missouri oak, or Oregon oak because oak from Oregon adds floral notes, but when I saw this tree… Oh, and then to toast the barrel I thought about going with a light toast because that offers more vanilla flavor than a medium toast, which adds coffee, caramel, and roasted nuts. Finally, I said, Screw it! Let’s go with both! So every other stave is alternating between light and medium toast. You can just imagine swimming in vanilla, coffee, caramel, and nuts…

 

Never mind the grape.

 

Special Equipment Needed

The only special equipment needed tonight that you might not have is a Fish Spatula. This is a metal spatula that is about twice as long as your pancake flipping spatula. It’s designed to slide under the entire length of the fillet to make turning it over easier and without breaking it.

 

MEP

The bullet-point Mis en Place (pronounced MEEz ahn plahs) for this dinner is as follows.

 

Set up the equipment on the stove:

· skillet for fish

· small pot with lid for rice pilaf

· small pot with lid for parsley and baseball zucchini

 

Set up the equipment on the counter:

· fish spatula

· landing pan for zucchini

· small bowl for lemon juice

· cutting board and knife for parsley and baseball zucchini

 

Portion the ingredients in the refrigerator:

· clarified butter

· whole butter

· parsley

· fish

· onions and carrots diced for rice pilaf

 

Prepare for service

· Dinner plates placed in oven, do not turn on heat

· Wine glasses cleaned and set at table

· Eating utensils, napkins etc., at the table

 

Recipe

The following steps are listed in the order taken to prepare the meal as described above, not in the typical order of protein first or first course served is the first course listed.

 

Turn oven on to 170°F.

 

Preparing the rice pilaf:

 

Preheat a skillet…	over high heat for two minutes, add the rice and toast to an even brownness.
Chicken stock onions carrots celery salt pepper	Add to skillet, stir, boil, reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook until done. Hold in oven.

 

Preparing the Baseball Zucchini:

 

Prepare pot for steaming…	by filling the pot with a 1/2-inch of water, insert steamer basket and turn burner to high.
Slice Baseball Zucchini in half…	and place it in the steamer basket and cover the pot with a lid. Steam until the zucchini is just under done, about 5 minutes.
Preheat a skillet…	in the usual manner. (See previous posts.)
Add oil to the skillet…	and sear the cut side of the zucchini. Spoon zucchini into a landing pan and hold in the oven.

 

Preparing the fish:

 

Preheat a skillet…	in the usual manner. Add clarified butter to the skillet.
fish fillets salt pepper flour clarified butter	Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Coat the fish with flour and when the butter reaches smoke point in the skillet, add the fish. Turn the fish when correct color is reached.

 

Preparing the plates:

 

Begin plating…

with the zucchini and rice pilaf, leaving room for the fish. Keep the oven door closed.

 

Continuing with the fish:

 

whole butter parsley lemon juice

When the fish is done place it on the plates and sprinkle the fish with parsley and lemon juice. Wipe skillet clean, return it to the burner, increase heat and add butter. When butter is properly browned pour it over the fish and serve it immediately.

 

Analysis and Notes

We opened the wine at 4:40 P.M. and double decanted it until the dinner was served at 5:20. Double decanting is pouring the wine into a decanter (or another empty wine bottle) and pouring the wine back into the original bottle. This gives the wine a double dose of air and begins softening the tannins much more quickly. It had color a nice gold color to it, much darker than a new Chardonnay. The bottle lasted until 7 P.M. What follows is a timeline of what and when each new component was detected.

 

5:20 this wine was made with oak: vanilla, caramel, and nuts; 30-second aftertaste T B

5:40 butter B

5:50 all oak notes fade and there’s nothing to detect

6:00 butter T

6:05 bacon fat T (reminded us of Pine Ridge Epitome)

6:10 petrol B

6:15 sour apple candy B

6:20 apple, pear, and quince notes reminiscent of a Burgundy B

6:25 something familiar and sweet but can’t identify it B

6:35 cream T B

6:40 rubber tire B

6:45 some chemical B

6:50 toast T B

6:55 still had a 30-second aftertaste

 

T Taste

B Bouquet

 

I think Kriste said “Wow!” about five times while eating the fish. It was properly cooked with a crisp crust and flakey, moist interior. I have to say even I enjoyed eating it and this was supposed to be an exercise in mis en place execution. The wine really impressed us, I thought we had all it had to offer by 5:50. But when it began shifting into new dimensions I felt very glad to still having four bottles left of this vintage. All-in-all I’d say this was a really nice dinner.

 

 

Until next Saturday… boja, boja.

 

Photos by me and I’m (obviously) not a photographer.

 

Here are a few items of note about the ingredients. Unless otherwise specified:

· Salt is always Kosher

· Olive oil is always extra-virgin

· Eggs are always large

· Butter is always unsalted

· Pepper is always freshly ground

 

References

Aliza Green, Field Guide to Seafood, Philadelphia, Quirk Books, 2007

 

August Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, New York, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1979

 

Diane Forley with Catherine Young, Anatomy of a Dish, New York: Artisan, 2002

 

Didi Emmonds, Vegetarian Planet, Boston, The Harvard Common Press, 1997

 

E. Saint-Ange, La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, Berkeley, California, Ten Speed Press, 2005

 

Elizabeth David, French Provencial Cooking, New York, Penguin Books, 7th ed., 1999

 

James Peterson, Glorious French Food, Hoboken, NJ, Wiley 1st ed., 2002

 

Jerald W. Chesser, CEC, CCE, Art and Science of Culinary Preparation, St. Augustine, FL, The Educational Institute of the American Culinary Federation, Inc., 1992

 

Jon Iverson, Home Winemaking Step by Step, Medford, OR, Stonemark Publishing Co., 3rd Ed., 2002

 

Julia Child, Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom, New York, Alfred A. Knopf, 2000

 

Len Deighton, ABC of French Food, New York Bantam Books, 1989

 

Paul Bocuse, French Cooking, New York, Pantheon Books, 1977

 

Philip Pauli, Classical Cooking the Modern Way, New York, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1999

 

Walter Bickel, Hering’s Dictionary of Classical and Modern Cookery, Rotherham, UK, 13th English Ed., 1994

 

Wine

Beringer Wine